The Triumph 2000 / 2500 / 2·5 Register Forum

Hello Mike,

the difference between battery voltage and voltmeter sensing is only 0.3 v then that is fairly unreadable on the scale. I'm a little surprised at that drop across the switch, which for a 10 A load say is quite a high resistance, however if the switch were carrying full load then that would only drop a volt give or take, which doesn't account for your voltmeter reading?

Alec

Hi Alec,

Well, I can only report what I found, but of course, I didn't take any written notes at the time and it was done over a few weeks! Anyway, the main crux is that before any mods, the dash volts dropped right down, after the mods, they stay up really well. Quite how much is due to ignition switch and how much due to the fuel pump current going elsewhere I can't say. I have also fitted extra wires from alternator to battery, both +ve and -ve, so quite what effect each mod has on its own is difficult to say.

Volts drop in the ignition switch I'm not surprised at - it's nearly 40 years old and the contacts would not have been designed for that life and no doubt will be dirty. Have you ever noticed that the key is sometimes warm after a long run?

Whatever, the result is that I have at least 2V more behind the dash and 2V in 12V is approaching 20%!

Cheers,
Mike.

Hello Mike,

certainly a worth while exercise.

Car electrics are pretty basic but with so many connections it's necessary for each one to be sound, and, as you say, after forty years things may get tired. I don't notice my ignition switch getting hot, but my pump is relay fed, as is the rear screen heater. So only ignition, wipers and heater blower to load the switch.

Alec

Spent today (Sunday) fitting the last bits of trim inside the car, refitting the parcel shelves and console. While I was doing that, the girlfiend fitted new furflex to the door frames.

She was very good, only swore once or twice!

And a top tip is to use a thinnish screwdriver to open up the furflex where it fits into the corners. This means it goes on without bending the internal metal tangs, use some pliers to crimp it tight.

Andy

Spent most of today on the PI. Adjusted the handbrake, (no adjustment left at the backplate, so I had to grovel further underneath to get to the compensator). It now comes on at the 5th click.

Fitted new plugs and rotor arm, checked the points and ignition timing. Replaced gearlever and even made up some sponge to go under the rubber gaiter! I put new 'O' rings in some replacement injectors and fitted them. However, I still have a slight hesitation on acceleration, so I put the car back in the garage and had a cup of coffee!

I shall be glad when all this feverish activity is done. I might get clean hands back again!

Cheers,
Mike.

My Mum and Dad came up last Thursday, for the weekend. so Friday night, Dad can help me bleed the brakes.
Got the car in the air and connected the Eeezibleed up, with my newly made adaptor cap for the Stag m/c (made from an old m/c cap).
Had a few probs getting the cap on the fluid bottle air tight, but after a few goes we managed it.
Started at the furthest rear wheel and all was going fine until suddeny a load of air came through and I could hear splashing on the garage floor.
In my attempts to get the fluid bottle cap to seal I had accidently swapped the piece of tube on the underside of the cap on to the airline side.
I now had a few splashes of fluid on the body of the car, a big puddle on the floor and a totally soaked front wheel.
Took that off and rinsed it under the outside tap for a while, cleaned the wing and sorted the mess on the floor.
Carried on and got the brakes bled.
Saturday, went to Ikea Leeds in the estate, fuel gauge was low but plenty left.Shopped and then returned to the car to go home.
Going along the M62 and decided it might be an idea to come off and look for a local petrol station. 1 mile up the road (steep hill) the car cuts and runs out of petrol. Probably a bit left but giong up hill.
Forgot that I changed the sender float a bit ago as the old one was full of petrol, and the gauge reads a bit different now.
Not far from a friends house in Wakefield, so he comes out, picks me up and we are off for petrol.
Puts the 5litres in the car......would it pump the fuel up? Anyone put an SU electric pump on there big saloon?
Had to push the car up hill and turn it to face downhil (dual carriageway!) and eventually got it to bump start.
Sunday, out in the pi to a restaurant for lunch, don't forget the steering wheel lock!
Came out from the place, popped over the road to the Harley dealers(big show on and my dad has one) back to the car......b@?%$£+ks, the two keys for the lock are on the estate keys and Amanda's Peugeot keys.
Amanda phoned her Dad, who fetched her home to pick up the keys!

Had a very nice 30 mile jaunt through N Yorks to go home though. Weathershield wide open and sun streaming down, but not a weekend to remember otherwise.
And don't the back ends of saloons sit low with two 125litre bags of compost in the boot and your parents in the back.

Colin.

Hi Colin,

It sounds like you must have permanent black hands like I do at present!

Cheers,
Mike.

Don't forget that during the last few weeks I have also replaced the clutch on Amanda's 206 as well.
We will be sitting on that ferry to France and everyone will be identifying us as 'the black hand gang'

Colin.

What sort of current is the fuel pump pulling under normal running conditions? Mine is the Lucas one, also the heated rear screen?
I was going to go outside with the clamp meter, then I realised the pi is at home

Colin.

Hello Colin,

I forget just for the moment, although the manual quotes 4 amps approximately for the pump.

It is just that my battery is in the boot so it was easy to make up a fuse and relay panel for the pumps and heater. and it made sense to reduce the run anyway.

Alec