Engine will not start

[mauvstag38]

Hi All,
Started car in garage yesterday fine backed out stopped engine, five minutes later turned key nothing no ignition or oil lights nothing lights ok but no wipers no indicators checked fuses ok battery earth ok. Took off steering shaft cowels to check wires all looked fine found if I moved 6 core cable opposite key, ignition lights come on also wipers & indicators, but key still will not turn to start motor, turn off and on nothing until I fiddle with wire again. Any ideas would be much appreciated.
Regards George.

[andyborris]

Engine isn't turning over?

No ignition light unless you fiddle with the wires?

I'd say it's a dodgy switch.

Andy

[mauvstag38]

Hi Andy,
Have ordered a new switch, taken out old one but when i turn key it will not go past position 2 it stops dead steering wheel turns, does not lock. How do I take off the steering lock to see what's wrong.
George.

[andyborris]

Don't know how a MK2 lock is attached, I own a MK1, but I'm guessing it's by shear bolts. The heads on shear bolts break off when tightened, cut or drill out is the only way I know of.

Andy

[Mike Stevens]

Hi George,

The lock is held by shear bolts but you can usually use a hacksaw to cut some screwdriver slots in them. It's fairly soft metal so isn't too bad to cut, but is a bit difficult for access. New shear bolts are available.

It does sound like a bad switch. The switch is a separate part to the lock and is held in by 2 small screws. I can't remember if they are both accessible with the lock on the car, but they might be. That could save the hassle of getting the shear bolts out!

Cheers,
Mike.

[TedTaylor]

I agree with Mike. Remove your switch unit first and see if that is faulty by substitution - the screws that hold it in place should be accessible once the plastic steering column shroud is removed. Unfortunately I cannot offer you one from the Rusty Reck that I am stripping down - as I removed the switch unit from the housing it flew apart for some reason even though I had been handling it carefully.

Cutting the slots as Mike suggests can be done but it can be difficult to get at the heads because they are often sunk into the aluminium column housing to prevent people doing this. It is possible to remove the old sheer bolts by using a dot punch (slim version of a centre punch - I have also made them up from hard masonry nails). You tap them with a hammer so that the point can dig into the 'head' of the bolt, then with the punch at an angle you tap the bolt round - it can be hard to get them started but once they do the first move it should not be too difficult to keep it going, moving the punch round on the head as you go.

If you cannot get any replacement sheer bolts use a hexagon socket screw, or file a slot in the head (it is easier to do this once the bolts are removed are removed) and use a screwdriver to screw them back in. If you want to maintain security fill the slot with araldite/plastic metal as a deterrent.

Ted

[mauvstag38]

Thanks for all the info, I've ordered all parts will let you know how I get on when they come.
George.

[mauvstag38]

Hi
Parts came today, tried new loom worked ok one down one to go, first bolt came out quite easily with a punch, second one with a punch and a saw and a pair of pliers and a couple of hours it eventually gave up and came out. So tommorrow put it back together I hope.
George

[andyborris]

I'm sure that you've already thought of this, but don't "sheer" the bolts heads of till you're sure everything is working OK!

Andy

[mauvstag38]

Got everything back together, did remember to check before shearing bolts thanks Andy, now can get on ramps to replace mounts.by the way ground an old 2ba tap to flat screwdriver tip to take out 2nd bolt worked better than pointed punch. Thanks for all your input everybody.
George.