The Triumph 2000 / 2500 / 2·5 Register Forum

What temperature should the air be from the heater? At the moment in NZ it is very hot, just had heater fixed so hard to tell, but not sure if it is putting out enough heat (not sure its actually working).

What was the problem with the heater, and what was done to 'fix' it?
In my experience, the heaters in our Triumphs are not particularly good in comparison to modern standards. They get relatively warm, but not roasting hot like modern car heaters. Mine put out reasonably hot air; it's the fan that lets it down, combined with a rather dismal attempt to direct the air to any combination of the screen, central vents or footwell. This is in both the Mk1 and Mk2.

Thanks for your input. The heater cable had broken and was replaced, it was flushed as well.Based on your comments I think it is ok now. The weather has been hot and humid, outside temp about 30c so wasn't sure if it was blowing in outside air or the heater having an effect.

Unlike Johnnydog, my 2500 heater works well even without the blower going. There is a tee piece in the return pipe that goes back to the water pump. There's something like a 3/16" hole where the tee piece joins the main pipe. I this section gets blocked with crud it stops the water circulation therefore the heat circulating. Had a few like this.
Tony.

Assuming HS6's are fitted, yes there is a T piece in the metal pipe to the water pump housing. On Strombergs, from the heater matrix, the outlet pipes go to the banjo at the end of the inlet manifold, and then to the metal transfer pipe running behind the manifold to the water pump housing. This doesn't have a T piece.

I am surprised the heater cable actually broke, because it is a solid piece of wire. Usually on a Mk2, if the temperature control lever ever goes sloppy, the cable hasn't 'broken', but it usually is the brass heater valve that has seized and cable has pulled out of it. Bit of a fiddle to get to, but easily sorted.
On a Mk1, the heater control valve is easily visible from under the bonnet.
Worth checking that the valve is operating properly as this controls the temperature (assuming all else is ok, such as the thermostat etc).

Have a laugh on me...
On my car the heater valve has most definitely stuck in the fully open position and boy does it bang out the heat! Which isn't much use on a summers day. Being somewhat useless at getting into confined spaces and having fingers that fumble and drop stuff all the time I solved this "temporarily" by inserting a half inch plumbers isolation valve in one of the hoses - which means I can isolate the water flow to the heater matrix from under the bonnet with a screwdriver. Bit difficult when on the move! And I've only got to open the valve a teeny bit on a cold day and the car gets as warm as toast in no time...

I admit I did this about six years ago when I was told that the dashboard would have to come out...

Ho hum

Whoever told you the dash needed to come out Malcolm was over exaggerating a bit!!!
The drivers side parcel shelf needs to be removed, and I accept it is a little of a contortionist act, but that's it. But I guess though you do need flexible fingers!!!!

Thanks John

I suspect that the reason I was told the dash would have to come out was that the person telling me was "in the trade" and saw the £££ signs! Of course, if you saw my driver's side parcel shelf you'd probably shake your head in disbelief - I did take that out a while back for another reason and couldn't get it back in properly... aaaaaargh!

All fixed thanks. I hadn't let it get to a reasonable operating temperature!!!