Changing track control arm ball joint...

[JimB]

Hi all,

Potentially a daft question, asked because I've not changed one before, but is it easy to swap out the ball joint in the track control arm? I've seen that there's a large, retaining circlip on top, but is the ball joint pressed into the arm?

I ask because the steering has gone a bit vague (the rack's fine, as are front wheel bearings) and there's a characteristic 'clonk' heard when driving over a speed bump at low speed.

Thanks

[TedTaylor]

Needs big hammers or if doing a properly a hydraulic press (guess which we used ....), drifts, spacer tubes, big vice etc. etc.

I would recommend getting you get a recon one from CW

MUT

[Jonathan Lewis]

Hi Jim,

The joint body is a partial interference fit into the TCA (presumably to prevent spinning).

In my experience, these are usually difficult to remove, requiring either lots of force or the careful sectioning of the joint to permit removal of the ball stud and then subsequent collapsing and removal of the outer body itself (making sure you don't damage the TCA in the process). The technique is described in the Service Notes, I believe.

The new joint is fitted by pressing in but, again, a fair amount of force seems to be required, perhaps more than you will achieve with a normal-sized bench-mounted vice.

Good luck...!

Jonathan

[Jonathan Lewis]

I would recommend getting you get a recon one from CW

I agree...

[Alan Chatterton]

I changed mine, but needed severe heat and a press to get them out. Press indicated almost 9 tonnes before they popped.
Find a shop with a hydraulic press.

[iggy]

if you know some with a ten ton press take them there save your self a lot off hassle

[CAR]

I've done a few Jim, remove the circlip and boot if it's any good still, cut the dome at the bottom off with a hacksaw, this removes the knuckle. Then cut a 1/4" section from the remaining sleeve and collapse the sleeve in on itself. Not difficult.
New one can be pressed in with a large bench vice. I have a large Record one which I use.

Colin

[CAR]

Just re-read about the characteristic clonk, I would suggest the drag strut bushes are tired, especially if there doesn't appear to be play in the TCA balljoint.

Colin.

[Alan Chatterton]

Have you tried snugging up the ball joint nut? They can work loose and a small nip can make all the difference.
Also, if the shock is loose in the strut, it can clonk but sound like a ball joint.

[Mike Stevens]

Although I have changed them in the past, these days I'd buy in an exchange part, usually power coated too.

Before going that far though, do check everything is tight under there. I had a 'clonk' on the Stag which in the end turned out to be one of the drag strut to TCA bolts wasn't quite tight enough. It doesn't take much!

Cheers,
Mike.