The Triumph 2000 / 2500 / 2·5 Register Forum

and originally a Cornish car,
cheers,
Laurence

I was reminded by Johnnydog how lacklustre my countdown to the National had been recently when we were chatting at Stoneleigh, so for you John and everyone else going............

Just 106 sleeps to go woohoo

Colin.

Sounds good to me!! Although it reminds me that I need to get cracking on my 'National' Triumph....!!

CRAJ wrote:
Just 106 sleeps to go

Colin.

Get the handbrake working, if I can find the necessary parts, fit 2 rubber boots on the steering rose joints, re-make dash loom and re-fit the gauges and get some new rear springs.

Oh, and an MOT.

And we'll be ready!

Andy

After recent difficult times,just realised this week Cecils mot is due in April.Have to start getting cracking soon.was hoping to fit new drag strut bushes,and I here they can be problematic to remove after a long time

Bill.

willjan wrote:After recent difficult times,just realised this week Cecils mot is due in April.Have to start getting cracking soon.was hoping to fit new drag strut bushes,and I here they can be problematic to remove after a long time

Bill.

Start soaking them with penetrating fluid now and you should get them fitted by the Nats, 2015!

Seriously Bill, it should be an easy job on Cecil, it's uncoupling the the drag struts from the suspension arms that's the PITA! And to change the bushes, you don't need to do that.

If you need a hand, call.

Andy

Hi Andy.
Thanks for that,does what your saying involve disconnecting the lower suspension and drag strut together,without removing the possibly problematic bolt.Or is that not possible.

Bill.

Hi Bill,

Yes, you can do that, but that means splitting the ball joint, (not too bad) but also removing the bolt through the bush at the inner end of the TCA. These can sometime really stick. I'd at first concentrate on the drag strut to TCA bolts with penetrating fluid as Andy suggests.

Remember that the drag struct bushes should look like a 'ball' when fitted, that is the flat sides to the chassis rail. I've seen a lot fitted the other way!

When you come to refit, I find it easier to start the inner end nut and run it somewhat up the thread before refitting the other end to the TCA. With the wheels suspended and all assembled, the angle to the drag strut inner nut makes it difficult to get to. Do the final tightening with the weight back on the wheels. That sets the angle better to get a socket in there and is better for the bushes too!

Cheers,
Mike.

Mike Stevens wrote:Hi Bill,

Yes, you can do that, but that means splitting the ball joint, (not too bad) but also removing the bolt through the bush at the inner end of the TCA. These can sometime really stick. I'd at first concentrate on the drag strut to TCA bolts with penetrating fluid as Andy suggests.

Remember that the drag struct bushes should look like a 'ball' when fitted, that is the flat sides to the chassis rail. I've seen a lot fitted the other way!

When you come to refit, I find it easier to start the inner end nut and run it somewhat up the thread before refitting the other end to the TCA. With the wheels suspended and all assembled, the angle to the drag strut inner nut makes it difficult to get to. Do the final tightening with the weight back on the wheels. That sets the angle better to get a socket in there and is better for the bushes too!

Cheers,
Mike.

Just like Mike said

92 sleeps to go , I can almost taste it it's so close.
Dad's car Cecil has a new MOT, what does anyone else need to do before the National?

Colin