The Triumph 2000 / 2500 / 2·5 Register Forum

Well it was clear to see why it would leak, I think whoever fitted it just didn't bother with any sealant at all. Have done both screens today, and given a coat around the rear 3/4 lights, so hopefully once it's cured it'll be leak free.

Did have a look around boot, but can't see anything obvious where it would seep in.

Excellent news - well excellent that you've found a likely cause anyway.

Let's hope that has it sorted for you. I've been through the forever covering it up phase and it's a right pain.

Cheers,
Mike.

Don't! Got back from the school run this morning to find the cover blown off and sat on the floor, mind it was then I found that the inside was dry. It stopped raining for a bit, so dried it all off, but the sealant has gone manky as it hadn't cured, so may have to go round it again to be sure, as there was the tell tale puddle in seat well later

Put cover back on just before rain came down, looked out 10 mins later damned cover had come off again! It's now roped on so shouldn't come off again, and it can stay under there for the next few days now. Hopefully will give it chance to cure and seal properly.

The only other thing I did notice the door seal where it meets at top rear corner is in 2 pieces, so I'm not sure if water may be getting past that, running down door pillar and getting into seat well, as the piece of carpet above there was wet, and I had nothing running down the floor from the tank area as before.

Aren't the windows supposed to be sealed with butyl mastic? It remains flexible and will reseal if the windows move around with the body flexing. You also shouldn't have to worry as much about exposure to rain as it just forms a skin on top.

(That's what I used on mine anyway. I found it listed in the factory manual.)

I've tried very hard to get some of the originally specified sealant but to no avail. I ended up using this "gutter and roof sealant" which is as mentioned, sticky and never really goes off. It does get a bit harder with time ( ) but doesn't seem to go completely hard.

The door seals have a glued joint at the top rear only (front door) and top front and rear (rear door). These do let go with time even with the original seals and the aftermarket ones tend to come as a long length to be cut to size and glued as a mitred joint anyway.

You might be able to pull the seal back together and glue it again with superglue. Do check the seal fit against the body. Put some paper in the hole and shut the door. You should not be able to pull the paper out easily if the seal is a good fit.

Cheers,
Mike.

Mike Stevens wrote:I've tried very hard to get some of the originally specified sealant but to no avail. I ended up using this "gutter and roof sealant" which is as mentioned, sticky and never really goes off. It does get a bit harder with time ( ) but doesn't seem to go completely hard.

I think that Moss used to sell the Triumph-specified Seelastik, but don't know whether they still do. That said, the "gutter and roof sealant" commonly available from DIY outlets seems to be of a very similar type and is certainly suitable for use as a caulk (e.g. behind the bright trim on roor rear and bootlid/rear wing flanges).

I have used the original seelastik, with metal key to crush the tube at the bottom and now use gutter type sealant, very similar imho.
Dad got some sealant that was meant for windscreen rubbers (not bonded screens) from a kit car supplier I think.

Colin.

This might be the stuff:
http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-winds ... ealer.html

I've bought stuff from Frost in the past -expensive, but usually good quality stuff and passes the "Ronseal Test" (it does what is says on the can)

Kevin

I use a black non setting windscreen sealant from my local motor factors. Can't remember the brand, but is is in a greenish mastic tube. Works well and is designed for the job!

This was a generic waterproof sealant that 'dries' clear, I had most of a tube left over from sealing something else. It cures to a flexible seal so I'm hoping it will do the job, if not I'll try again with something like This stuff from halfrauds