Voltage stabiliser

[simon.williams]

I changed this for a new one. The old one had some kind of capacitor attached to it, and earthing to the back of the fuel guage (you can just see it in the attached photo, bottom left…) I have left this on for now, but i don’t think I need this capacitor in the way? It may be all dried up inside anyway? Thanks!

[torque2me]

Never seen a capacitor attached to the voltage stabiliser but I guess it could be something to do with smoothing. I think the stabiliser is 12v in and 9v out to the gauges (2 of them). Yes, I would think you could do away with it but a previous owner must have considered a need for it. However, new ones do not seem to be in the same league as Triumph/Unipart ones in the 70's. I'm on my third one (one's obtained from Revington and Wins etc.) but none are providing the correct voltage out.
Kev

[Mike Stevens]

The original ones are bi-metallic types and produce an output of 10V by switching the output on and off so that the average output is 10V. The temp and fuel gauges are very slow to change their readings so they 'integrate' (average) the reading.

I guess most medern ones are electronic types using a '3 termianal regulator' which should give an accurate voltage of 10V. I don't see why they would not work with a normal gauge, but there again I've not tried one yet!

Cheers,
Mike.

[Alec]

Hello Kev,

the capacitor will almost certainly be to reduce interference on the radio. As Mike says there is a make and break contact inside which may generate some small noise on the radio.

Do ensure that the body is properly earthed. Also, how accurate is your meter?

Alec

[simon.williams]

My new voltage stabilisator didn’t work & I lost my petrol guage reading. Putting an old one back on cured that.