2500TC 1974

[Mike Stevens]

Hi Steve,

Fine piece of work there Steve. I'm afraid that if it has been me I'd have swapped the tube for another from the shed!

Oil. I've not added any when replacing the inserts but there is opinions on both sides of this. I've not had any issues but I don't drive either the PI or Stag at the limit. If you are racing/rallying then maybe the oil will help with heat dissipation.

I wonder what Charles does?

Cheers,
Mike.

[Alec]

Hello Steve,

I added oil when I replaced my inserts, and think that this was on the list of instructions (Koni) and I bleive it is to help heat transfer for the insert to run cooler.

Alec

[Dread Pirate Roberts]

Thanks gents.

Not likely to race or rally that's for sure Mike! Hopefully some spirited driving once I've got the feel for it again.

I've done a bit of internet searching and seems for Konis Alec is spot on and about 50ml of oil should be added. Doesn't seem like a lot but i'll see. What oil this should be exactly is not so clear, whether motor oil or ATF etc. I may just see what I have in the garage.

[Mike Stevens]

Mine weren't Konis, just the 'standard' type. There was no mention of oil but you have got me thinking!

Cheers,
Mike.

[Alec]

Hello Steve,

just common or garden engine oil, there is not a lot of space around the insert so 50cc goes a long way.

Alec

[Charles H]

I re did my front struts a couple of years ago with CW supplied KYB inserts. I have been pleased with them, but for the life of me cannot remember if I put oil in the tube or not!

[Dread Pirate Roberts]

^ no worries

Next stage of welding can begin now, n/s floor and outrigger. Thanks Lloyd, these look excellent.

[Dread Pirate Roberts]

Feels like progress, and it is, but not in the area that really needs it (Welding )

I did go the oil fill route but it'll be a while before I can try it out. Word to the wise probably but make sure you rescue the gaiter dished top washer when you take apart the strut. This is so so you don't assemble the strut without it and sit there thinking that can't be bloody right!?!? Fortunately I still had it.

Anyway, new insert, gaitor, bearing stripped, inspected and regreased, everything wire wheeled and painted, new ball joint on the arm too.

[Mike Stevens]

Those ball joints are a real pain to remove/replace. I've done a couple in the past but I have to admit that I tend to buy new (powder-coated) arms these days, C/W new joint and bush!

Good progress Steve!

Cheers,
Mike.

[Dread Pirate Roberts]

Thanks Mike. Wasn't too bad to shift the joint. I put the nut on, either side of the base of it between vice jaws, so the arm was supported but the joint was free; then hit it a few times with a 2lb hammer. Didn't take many blows