2500TC 1974

[Dread Pirate Roberts]

It's not abandoned! Finally some progress, albeit small, disappointingly almost a year after taking it on...

Started on the nsf corner, by far the worst area. Started cutting out the rot, decided that it would be easier to remove the suspension to get into the areas more easily.

I'm thinking I need to put a bit in here before I cut anymore out. It's not moving at the moment but I'm not sure on removing the suspension mount, I can weld it back in no problem I'm just not sure how critical it is if its a few mm out, would the bushes absorb this difference?

Chassis rail still needs to cut back further. I wonder if it's worth just doing the whole thing in new tbh.



It's pretty good up there, still original paint, although with light surface rust. I think I can get a wire brush up there but any tips/suggestions for surface coating bearing in mind that I will be welding close by? Maybe just waxoil or similar once new steel is in...



I've started making my cardboard templates so I can cut the steel and hopefully make a good fit before I go to weld. I'm waiting to see how far Lloyds floor sections will extend before I cut that area any further.

Passenger seat removed but I think I should really take out the rest of it, and the centre console.
Any tips for protecting the glass and the headlining from grinding sparks and possibly weld spatter?

my helpers / hinderers for some of the day.

[Dread Pirate Roberts]

Did some more this last week, really must make a more concerted effort to allocate time to it....

Anyways, haven't got a floor panel yet so decided to move forward and sort the arch and valance area out.

Ended having to add another large piece to this to get to good metal. Seemed fine til I started welding. Went for overkill. Hammer marks are my efforts at the double curve required..



None of the following are welded in yet, just mostly fabbed. Parts need fettling and trimming but need all the pieces of the puzzle first.

Wheel arch cut and made. I would like to crisp up the edges of the lip if I can. It's too long at the bottom edge at present but will be cut to suit.



Valance cut and fitted, mole gripped in place




Need to figure out how to make a pattern for the valance/wing corner piece. I know it will need forming but what shape to start with??

Wire wheeled the valance and gave it a coat of primer, makes it look better than it is probably but a good placebo for sure



Really need to remove the headlamp fixtures but had no drill with me to drill out the rivets.. next time.

[Dread Pirate Roberts]

Despite my last report things did not progress well (at all) over the last 6 months. Various reasons and excuses but I’ve not given up on the old girl.

So the last Saturday morning and most of the day this Saturday have seen me revisit what had been done already and decide I wasn’t happy with some of it. I had intended to for the repairs from single pieces but have neither the skill or the tools to do things to with the result I wanted.

So onto the bottom of the valance and bottom wing section. I ended up making the lips, where the two parts would have been spot welded together, to the correct profile and using that to form the sheet to shape. Got as far as tack welding it into place, still needs some shaping at the bottom but should only require a minimal skim of filler. Taking the same approach on the arch lip to get the profile crisp enough. Made the edge and return lip so far, the flare still to do. Hopefully more updates to follow.

[harveycoppock]

Looks good! Just been inventing bits for front valence corners myself. Much beating with a hammer to make a compound curve.... Re your earlier work on mounting point for arm from base of front struts - mine collapsed once when I curbed it on ice, but it was a bit rotten.... If these aren't in the right place it will alter the castor angle, so it will either steer to the left, or right, or alter the extent that it wants to self centre, or not, if they are both in the same place, but too far forwards, or back. I think I did a bit of fine tuning with some big washers.... (Sounds better if I call it a shim!) Got to take these off again soon for a bit more welding round there.

[Dread Pirate Roberts]

Thanks Harvey. I surprised these didn't collapse too when I moved it tbh.

Bit more done. Pics upload next time.

[Dread Pirate Roberts]

Some progress, not enough, but some.

I'm calling the valance and front arch (mostly) done subject to filling. Red oxide is just brushed on for now to give some protection. I'll wheel it off and spray when I get to it.



Then there's this

[Dread Pirate Roberts]

Then this happened. Carpet has seen better days.



As has the passenger door, this came home with me for some work



Console need removing for floor replacement. How does this fix in? Any pointers please. I'll be getting panel and x-member off Lloyd once I've been paid



Not too bad otherwise

[Mike Stevens]

Console (I assume you mean around the gearlever?). 2 screws behind it into the floor and 2 more, one on each side at the top holding it to the dash system. The latter screws don't need to be taken out, just loosened as they're in slots.

If you mean the dash, there are brackets each side into the body side, and screws along the top - inside the demist vent I think.

Coming on well!

Cheers,
Mike.

[Dread Pirate Roberts]

Thanks Mike. Yep just the gear lever surround, I'm hoping the dash doesn't need to come out! No reason for it I've seen yet.

[Dread Pirate Roberts]

Hi Folks. So, just had to do some surgery to the strut tube. Basically the first inch of tube above the spring platform had rusted through. Gaiter had split at some point and filled the bottom section up with water and mud which sat and did it's evil magic. Was cleaning it up with a wire wheel and found the holes.

Obviously I needed to keep the internal thread for the lock washer, didn't look into re-cutting one tbh. I did debate on just sleeving it but decided to take the plunge and do it right and weld in a new section. So lots of practice on spare tube and many measurements later I cut the top off about half inch below the thread and then at the spring plate.

Precut, not a great pic but you can see the thinning of the tube starting under the tape downwards. Used the tape edge to get an easily visible cut line. Marking and cutting it square was the hardest bit tbh.



There are some burrs here admittedly but you can see how thin the wall had got at the top of the pic



And Welded. Still needs more dressing but don't want to thin it down again. Again, awful photo but good penetration through and visible.



Do I need to add any oil in the tube with the new sealed inserts, just for protection? If so any guesses how much would do?