Help!! 2000 Mk2 Newbie

[johnconradlee]

Before you take it out its worth marking which way on the sender is "up" with an arrow as its not necessarily obvious when it's out of the car. Once you've plugged it in and checked it operates over the full range and that the fuel warning light comes on, check it is "calibrated", i.e it will read empty when the tank is nearly empty, by bending the float arm. The last time I changed one I forgot this last step and ended up with a gauge that read just under half full with the float sat on the bottom of the tank and the fuel light never came on. This resulted in a late night walk to the petrol station with a fuel can.

[Simon2000]

Thanks John, Dave and Mike, will check that out tomorrow hopefully! Probably need to get a new gasket for it though..

OK So sorted the HT issues, it was the condenser and the ballast. Fitted the new bits and bypassed the ballast. Cleaned out the stuck carb and fitted the new inlet valve.

Just about to put it back on I noticed the original engine side gasket has a round cut-out inside which matches a hole in the carb, however this the original two gaskets and spacers were fitted round the other way as you can see from the indents in the old one, so it was blocked. See pic,of old bits (opposite way to how it was fitted) and new gasket next to it

Does it matter? Not sure if this hole actually goes anywhere, plus the new gasket in the kit does not have the cut-out. Thoughts?

Hope to clean out the other tomorrow and refit them and see if she finally starts!

[Alec]

Hello Simon,

" Fitted the new bits and bypassed the ballast."

You'll need to change the coil for a 12v coil otherwise you will burn out the original.

Not familiar with Strombergs but I don't believe that that hole has no purpose, why put it in otherwise? I wouldn't block it off.

Alec

[Simon2000]

Hi Alec, Yes fitted a new 12v coil.
I agree! I'll have to see what the other side is like.

[Simon2000]

So the hole was blocked so wasn't an issue.

Cleaned up the carbs and fitted the gasket kits...
She starts and runs! , though I think the timing is out but the oil seems very thin and watery so didn't want to run for too long! Will have to step through each bit and check the carb balance etc..

The OIL spec says 20W50, Any recommendations or anything to avoid? Is it just a case of going for Castrol Classic? Looking at the various manuals one says 4.55L, another says 5.1L, I wonder if the lower is without a filter change?

Also anyone got a N\S Wing mirror spare? its been snapped off by some toe-rag at some point.

Tyres all need replacing, posted up another thread question about sizes.

I seem not to have a Fog light - I assume that is still needed to be added to pass an MOT despite its age ?

So I guess now it runs, so will the money on parts!

[Alec]

Hello Simon,

progress, very satisfying. I would stick with 20/50, of any reputable make, whatever your preference is.

I don't think you need a fog light for your MOT?

Alec

[docwad]

the stromberg carb has a big hole and a smaller letter box hole above the big one, make sure this isn't blocked by gasket , air fliter upside down or even the wrong airbox back plate(SU type) which is with out a cut out for this hole.
If it is blocked it will run out of puff at about 3500 rpm and become very asthmatic.

[Charles H]

I use Comma 20/50. It 'appears' to be like the old Duckhams Q I used for years. It is even green!
You do not need a fog light for your MoT.

[Mike Stevens]

I'm using VR1, so called 'racing oil' in the Stag and PI. It appears to give a slightly higher oil pressure - in Stags anyway - but I have a new oil pump in the PI and oil pressure is not an issue!

Although relatively expensive, it is often on offer from places like Euro Car Parts. It is supposed to be high in ZDDP (?) which is also supposed to be good for the Triumph engines.

Just another opinion on the oil issue!

And yes, like the others, I'll also say you don't need a fog light! Nor an external driver's mirror if the car is before 1974/5 ish!

Cheers,
Mike.

[Simon2000]

Thanks for the info, oil ordered.

Next question on brake\clutch fluid, assume DOT 3 or 4 is OK and if so can be synthetic (some places list as synthetic, other doesn't say either way)? TIA